This is an English translation of a European canyon
classification system. The translation is based on the original French version
and a Portuguese translation. The Portuguese version contains many additions
to the French version. Since my French and Portuguese are both pretty rusty
(ie, nonexistent), I relied on machine translations of the two and a lot of
judgment – so obviously there may be mistakes. If any French or Portuguese
speakers wish to make corrections to the English translation, please send them
to me.
The original French version is found at:
http://www.ffme.fr/texte/ffme/canyon-classement.pdf
The Portuguese translation is found at:
http://www.adesnivel.pt/canyoning/graduacao.html
I have not updated the English version to reflect canyons
and canyoneering styles found in the United States, with the exception of
providing climbing ratings using the Yosemite Decimal System.
Update: Daniel Clearwater in New Zealand created his own (and better) translation. It is definitely worth a look.
Introduction
The classification of canyoning routes is a matter often
discussed with little consensus. Canyons can be classified based on their
interest, “vertical” technical difficulty, water levels, exposure, length and
sensitivity of the environment.
As canyoning is practiced in natural areas that are often
difficult to access and travel through (often in a mixed environment:
Mountains with water), and requires technical knowledge associated with roped
travel, hiking, climbing and swimming/traveling through water, it is necessary
to adopt a classification system that uses several variables.
Additionally, the conditions of the canyon can vary
significantly, especially due to the conditions of the environment/weather, and
especially with a variation in the water flow.
The main factors contributing to the difficulty and safety
of canyoning are:
- Equipment
- The entry/exit of the canyoning route
- Difficulty associated with overcoming technical obstacles
- Flow and movement of water
- Canyon morphology
- Exposure – including rockfall, floods caused by dam releases,
etc.
- Escapes
- Possibility of leaving the flood zone to safety
- Time spent in contact with water
- Temperature of the water and the air
- Ease of communication and rescue
- Route information available
- Human factors – knowledge, size of group, etc.
Apart from the classification associated with difficulty,
canyons can be classified given their length and in their interest level.
Classification of Canyons
Canyons can be classified taking into account several
factors. Apart from difficulty, canyons can be classified with respect to
water exposure, length and interest.
The classification presented here is based on a document
written by the French Federation of Mountain Climbing (FFME), with support from
the French Federation of Speleology (FFS) in conjunction with the National
Union of Mountain Guides (SNGM), the National Union of Professionals Climbing
and Canyoning (SNAPEC), the National Union of Professional Speoleogy and
Canyoning (SNPSC) and the Federation of French Alpine Clubs (FCAF)
These standards were adopted by the steering committee on
Sept 27, 2003.
Classification of a Canyon’s Degree of Interest
The interest level of a canyon is relatively subjective;
however it is possible with some approximation to classify that interest given
the wealth of natural beauty, technical interest and a leisure (or “fun”)
component.
Consider four levels:
* Slightly interesting
** Interesting
*** Very interesting
**** Exceptional
Degree of Difficulty
The degree of difficulty classification presented here refers
to the “normal” conditions of the canyon (relatively low/safe current flows) at
the best season and conditions for a descent. An easy canyon, in certain
conditions (for example, high water or adverse weather conditions) becomes very
dangerous or even impossible to descend safely.
The classification also assumes that the canyoners have
knowledge appropriate for the technical requirements of the descent, are in
good physical condition and use the appropriate equipment.
In turn, the classification assumes the use of more common
techniques. For example, a group may employ little used techniques such as
guided rappels to avoid obstacles during the descent when most groups won’t,
thus possibly reducing the difficulty of the canyon.
The placement of the canyon on the classification scale
represents the level of difficulty of the canyon.
The personal psychological aspects of exposure, verticality
etc is not taken into account in the classification.
Hazards associated with rock quality and sheltering from rockfall
is not sufficiently explored in the original French classification, but were
introduced into the Portuguese version as higher degrees of difficulty. The
difficulty associated with jumps is only to be considered when required.
There are two indicators of the level of difficulty:
- v: Vertical/technical difficulty, and
- a: The aquatic (water) difficulty
Both the Vertical and Aquatic difficulty levels are divided
into 7 classes (1 – 7), with the upper limit left open.
|
|
Difficulty
|
Vertical Technical Rating - v
|
Aquatic Rating – a
|
|
1
|
Very Easy
|
Use of a rope not needed, no climbing required
|
Without water or with calm water. Swimming optional.
|
|
2
|
Easy
|
Rappels up to 10 meters. Easy climbing/downclimbing.
|
Water is calm, may have jumps up to 3 meters, may have
swimming up to 30 meters.
|
|
3
|
Slightly Difficult
|
Rappels: easy anchor access and building, from 10 to 30
meters high. If rappels are in water the current is low. Walking may be difficult
and slippery. Climbing and downclimbing is simple (up to 5.4)
|
Weak current, may have jumps up to 5 meters and swimming
up to 30 meters.
|
|
4
|
Moderately Difficult
|
Rappels: From 30 to 60 meters possible; Anchors can have
difficult access or be difficult to build; the bottom of the rappel may not
be visible from the anchor; anchor stances for multi-pitch rappels tend to be
on comfortable ledges; rappel landings are likely to be in deep water
(swimming required). Rope management possibly difficult. Climbs are up to
5.5+ with possible aid climbing required (A0)
|
Average water currents, easy jumps up to 8 meters or more
difficult jumps up to 5 meters possible. Long contact with water. Siphons
that are easily dealt with may be encountered (usually in relatively calm
water). Slides can be long and/or steep.
|
|
5
|
Difficult
|
Rappels and anchoring can be difficult, possibly up to 60
meters high. Free hanging rappels possible. If the rappels are in flowing
water, the current can be medium to high speed. Pulling the rope may be
difficult. Climbing and downclimbing up to 5.8 or aid climbing up to A1.
|
Prolonged immersion in cold water. Travel through water
is relatively difficult due to current. Water hazards like siphons and
hydraulics likely. Jumps may be simple from 8 to 10 meters high, or more
difficult from 5 to 8 meters high. Dealing with water hazards, including
siphons, hydraulics and slides require special care.
|
|
6
|
Very Difficult
|
Rappels and anchors are difficult. If flowing water is
present the current is strong to very strong. Rappels are into deep pools
with possibly moving water. Guided rappels, deviations and rebelays may be
needed. Anchors may be difficult to build. Climbing and downclimbing up to
5.10 with aid climbing possible up to A2. Rope management is difficult.
Rappels are exposed to falling rocks.
|
Progress is in strong current with possibly dangerous
water. Danger of being trapped in water features like siphons and
hydraulics. Jumps are easy from 10 to 14 meters high, but possibly difficult
from 8 to 10 meters. Difficult to deal with siphons, hydraulics etc.
|
|
7
|
Extremely Difficult
|
If flowing water is present, current is extremely strong
and pools at the base of rappels are likely dangerous. Prolonged exposure to
cold. Climbing and downclimbing is upper 5.10 or harder, and aid climbing is
A2+. Rappel, multi-pitch, rebelay and deviation anchor stances may be near
strong water flow or exposed to rockfall.
|
Travel through water is extremely difficult with very
violent movements of water. Extreme danger of being trapped and immersed by
the movement of water. Jumps are hazardous and may be more than 10 meters
high, with easier jumps up to 14 meters high. Dealing with siphons,
hydraulics etc are technical and difficult, with the possibility of low or no
visibility.
|
Classification of the Degree of Exposure/Length of
Canyons
The degree of exposure/length of canyon routes depends
essentially on the length of time required, ease of access, characteristics of
the rock (rotten, edges etc). The ease of escaping the canyon is also
considered.
The classification of the times to complete the route assume
a group of 5 canyoners, none of whom have completed the route previously, but
equipped with information on the canyon (beta) and the proper equipment.
There are 6 levels of exposure/length:
|
Exposure/Length
|
I
|
II
|
III
|
IV
|
V
|
VI
|
|
Time it takes to reach a spot with high ground to escape
in case of a flood
|
0 min
|
15 min
|
30 min
|
1 hour
|
2 hour
|
> 2 hour
|
|
Time to access an escape route leaving the canyon
|
0 min
|
30 min
|
1 hour
|
2 hour
|
4 hour
|
Full day
|
|
Time to complete the route (approx, including approach,
descent and exit)
|
2 hours
|
4 hours
|
6 hours
|
8 hours to 1 day
|
2 days
|
> 2 days
|
Summary
In summary we can classify canyons through four types of
classification:
- Beauty/Interest (* to ****)
- Exposure/Length (I to VI)
- Technical (Vertical) Difficulty (v1 to v7)
- Water (Aquatic) Difficulty (a1 to a7)
Examples:
Mountain Canyons:
Booth Creek (Vail): ** II v3 a3
Blue Moon Canyon (Ouray) **** IV v5 a3
Quartzite Corridor (Ouray): **** IV v4 a5
Cascade Creek (Ouray): **** IV v5 a2
Unicorn Creek (Mt Rainier National Park): ** III v3 a2
Edith Creek (Mt Rainier National Park): ** II v4 a3
Colorado Plateau canyons:
Pine Creek (Zion National Park): *** II v3 a2
Mystery Canyon (Zion National Park): *** III v3 a1
Choprock (Grand Staircase/Escalante National Monument):
**** IV v4 a3
Imlay (Zion National Park): **** IV v5 a3
